Hey everyone! I found an amazing fabric on last month’s fabric market and I bought the last of the bolt, AND another colour variation! I immediately saw a whimsical poofy skirt paired with a plain black polo shirt. As I always need more skirts this was a very sensible 6 yard purchase – right???
I worked with this pattern before and it’s just an amazing, simple dress with pleats and side seam pockets. It is actually quite full despite the image. I have never made it with a belt though.
The market stall where I got this fabric is from the Geran website Snaply.de that does multiple international fabric markets. There might be a chance of it popping up on any Dutch / German / Belgium fabric market. If not, here is where you can buy it!
I also got the inverted one on the right, but that one seems to have sold out on Snaply. I found an alternative (albeit German) shop here. This fabric is actually very see-through so I am saving it for either a light summer dress to be lined with batist, or a romantic blouse.
For the design I had a whimsical pocket flap in mind, inspired by a 1930 jumper dress made by Angela Clayton. I really liked the way the side seam with buttons looked, and I wanted to transform it into a pocket flap. However to fully enjoy the flaps they would have to be moved up front in a side-front placement instead of a side-seam placement.
I took the Knipmode 1705-06 skirt pattern and moved the side seam to the side-front. I made sure to not push it too far, just before the first pleat.
I serged the edges of the front and back panels and ironed on some seam tape for the pocket openings.
The pocket flaps were drawn by myself. They are a total of 2cm wider than the pocket opening and about 7cm wide at the widest point. I used interfacing on one side, then stitched together and pressed.
Pocket flap pinned and stitched to the pocket opening on the front panel of the skirt.
Understitched the pocket facings. Can’t leave a project without some understitching!
Then I put the pocket lining on top and serged ONLY the curved edged together. I stitched the rest with the normal sewing machine. I would not recommend doing the entire pocket construction on the serger as there are some very narrow corners to turn.
I pressed the pocket to the back. I forgot to mention I did serge the straight edge of the pocket beforehand.
Now I pressed the flap back and cut in the bit just above and below the flap to release the seam. Now the side seam of the front panel is visible. I will pin and stitch the side seam of the back panel here, taking care not to stitch in the flap. If you need some more detailed instructions of this way of inserting a pocket, please see Dot to Dot Studio’s tutorial.
Do I prefer the version where you sew the pocket facing to the front panel and the pocket lining to the back, then joining them in one go with the side seam? Yes. Do I even more prefer the version where you cut the pocket in one go with the panels? Also yes. Both methods would be quite hard to get right with a flap inbetween all those layers!
I topstitched the pocket down, taking care to only go through the front panel and pocket facing, NOT the pocket lining (or I would sew the pocket close). Just shove the machine’s free arm in the pocket and sew accordingly and you can’t fail.
Time to pin and baste the pleats. I hate basting, but I always make an exception for pleats.
Setting the pleats aside for a while and turning my attention to the waistband. Here is the outer waistband joined at the side seams. For this skirt, only a back zipper makes sense.
Stitching the pleated front and back panels to the waistband. I did not move the seam on the waistband so the side-front seam of the skirt panels do not match the side seams of the waistband. If the fabric was not as busy as this one, I might consider moving the seam.
The inner waistband was interfaced with H180 lightweight fusible interfacind and stitched to the outer waistband.
A first fit, and it does fall flat a bit…. I decided to put in a lining after all. My original plan was to just wear it with an underskirt but the fabric just doesn’t have the body to hold up.
At this point I also really liked the pockets as is, without the buttons in my original design. I decided to leave the pockets as-is.
Time to add some more seam tape, this time to the back where the invisible zipper would be.
I actually got it right the first time, and the waistband seams match perfectly, yay!
For the hem I decided to go with a wide facing instead of a regular turned hem. I thought it would give the hem some body and stability.
After stitching the facing to the hem (and understitching it, of course), I turned it up and just topstitched it down without turning in the top serged edge. After I finished, I didn’t really like how the black topstitch kind of cut through all the white flamingo’s. Next time I might consider doing it by hand.
Time for the lining. I just got some regular old polyester lining in black.
Serged the side seams. See how big the skirt is without the full pleats!
I don’t usually pleat lining, instead I gather everything to the correct with or take a tuck in case of a dart. Sewing lining fabric is terrible enough as it is, no need to stress myself even more.
The gathers will add stability to the pleats.
Stitched to the inner waistband, and pressed down.
I also had to attach the invisible zipper to the lining. For that technique I am always very grateful to use this tutorial byThe Girl Inspired!
I am in love with this skirt! It turned out really whimsical and the pocket flap is such a nice funky detail that breaks away from the busy pattern.
The dress has gotten a bit more volume with the lining, yet I am really curious to see how it will look with a petticoat. The length of the skirt is 65cm instead of the normal 60cm I like to go with (which falls just below for me), so there is room to use a petticoat.
This mannequin has a big swayback that I don’t have, so the skirt looks a bit droopy. On me it is perfect though! I will take additional pictures when worn once I secure a petticoat.
Detail of the invisible zipper.
The lining stays nice and flat (although I had to do a couple of hand stitches down at the bottom to make it slightly more even).
I am still not 100% sure if I will end up going back and add the 3 buttons from my design. What do you think?
Thanks for joining me again!
- Skirt KM1705-6 by Knipmode
- Side seam pockets by Dot to Dot Studio
- Sewing a lining to an invisible zipper by The Girl Inspired!