Hey all! Here is an old project I did in 2017 for my step sister. I thought it would be fun to let her design her own jacket! She picked this pattern and then we had lunch at the fabric market where she also picked her own fabrics. Talk about a great b-day gift 😉
Being from 2017 this was shot in my old studio (hi old studio!) that is now a wax salon. I actually went back there last week to retrieve some business mail and it was a lot of fun to see the space completely transformed!
Anyway, on to the jacket.
Pattern & toile
The blazer has princess seams with welt pockets with zippers (at least I think that’s what it’s called in English). I only did a small FBA just to be sure, I think it was 2 cm?
The toile in muslin fabric. There were some puckers in the sleeve but I didn’t care enough to redo them.
The collar looks crooked but I just pinned it badly, oops! After a fit the toile was pretty much perfect apart from the sleeve length. I added another 1.5cm to the sleeves and I was ready to go.
My step sister had already decided on a black-and-white hounds tooth pattern for the outside with a red collar and shoulder details. When we stumbled on this jacquard the hounds tooth went out the window – and this was a very gorgeous fabric indeed! I got a jersey of similar weight, and pre-washed them both (separately of course).
I stitched the princess seam, then reinforced & cut the welt pockets. Then I stitched the shoulder seams, side seams and set in the sleeves.
At this point I wasn’t the best in keeping up with taking pictures so I’m gonna jump straight to the lining!
Look at this! How amazing is this lining? We stumbled across it and took the last 2.5 meters. It’s an electric purple with deer heads surrounded by roses. So tacky, LOL! But it went weirdly well with the black and white outer fabric and the red accents.
Next time I will staystitch all edges of the jacquard pieces because it was hard to align them perfectly with the polyester lining.
Back to the outer shell. I pinned the shoulder pads and then turned the shell inside out and it looked like a weird costume!
Also you can see the purple pockets here. Next time I will probably construct the pockets differently, with a strip of the outer fabric near the zipper, because you can still see a sliver of the lining fabric near the pocket. Bummer!
The shell right side out, but… Something is not right! The collar was way too short – that won’t do at all. I went back to the paper piece and I misinterpreted the size! Luckily it was a relatively quick fix. I would have hated to re-do the princess seams and all pockets much more…
This is much better. And done! The sleeves were sewn to the lining and the whole coat was pressed.
The back of the coat is very nice and shapely over the shoulders, waist and hip. It is a very feminine and tailored jacket.
Close-up of the pocket (including bright blue marker, that will wash out!). You can see some purple peeking out here and there due to the way it was constructed. The pattern said to use the outer fabric for the pocket facing and lining but I found that to be too thick. Next time I will use a different method – maybe half white half accent lining?
The red shoulder details are the bomb and give the jacket its character.
Oh, forgot to say – the original didn’t have a zipper, only 1 button near the waist, but it looks really good with this metal zipper. It’s not meant to be work completely closed tho, this is more how I envisioned it.
My stepsister was very happy with the blazer and I hope it will stay nice and white for a long time!
Thanks again for joining me on this modern sewing adventure 🙂